Euro Painting, Inc.

Hiring a contractor is perhaps the most important decision you can make in any home improvement project. To hire the best contractor for your needs, follow the tips below.

Ask for Referrals
Ask people whom you know and trust for contractor referrals, such as:

• Friends
• Neighbors
• Your local Paint & Decorating store

Check Credentials
When you make contact with contractors you’re interested in hiring, ask them these questions:

• Are you a member of the local Better Business Bureau?
• Are you a member of any national or local painting contractors’ associations?
• How long have you been in business?
• Do you subcontract your work or perform it yourself?
• Do you have the proper/required licenses?
• Do you have insurance and bonding? (This helps determine whether your contractor and any hired workers are insured for injury and liability.  Beware if they are not properly insured they will come after you personally, should something unfortunate happen.)

Review Guarantees and Warranties
Make sure you get guarantees and warranties for contractor work in writing, including:

• The types of problems covered, and how they will be handled.
• Specifics on what is covered by your bill (such as workmanship and materials.)

Check References

• Be sure to get at least three references from past customers.
• Speak to references directly.
• Visit references to evaluate work in person, and to see how well it has held up over time.

Additional Questions
When you speak with potential contractors for your project, be sure to ask them who will perform the work—the contractor themselves, their employees, or a hired crew.

Also pay attention to the following signs and behaviors, which will help guide you in selecting the right contractor for your project:

• Does the contractor project a sense of professionalism and experience?
• Is the contractor courteous and business-like?
• Is the contractor busy? (Good ones usually are.)
• Does the contractor return phone calls and provide estimates in a timely manner?
• Is the contractor on time for appointments?
• Do you have a good rapport with the contractor?
• Does the contractor seem interested in working with you?

Get at Least Three Estimates
When you receive contractor estimates, they should fall roughly within the same price range. If estimates are widely different from one another, be wary of contractors who bid too high or too low. Ask about what is not being done, and where corners are being cut.

Review Your Contract
Take time to review your contract for work, and to ask questions about any details for which you need clarification. Be sure to ask about:

• The specifics on what is to be painted (house, trim, shutters, etc.)
• What will be used to paint different features (one color for your house, another color for your shutters, etc.)
• Details on preparation and cleanup.
• Paint and primer brands and colors that will be used.
• How many coats of paint will be applied.
• How your contractor will protect plants, patios, and other items.
• How much time the project will take, from start to end.
• When and how the contractor will be paid.

What’s a sheen and which is right for you?

While selecting paint for a particular room take your time to choose the paint. The paint that you select is an important component in creating the final appearance of the room. A factor that you should carefully consider is the sheen of the paint. Sheen is the amount of light reflected off the painted surface or how much the paint shines ones it is applied. The sheen of paint determines the appearance, durability and suitability of the paint. Greater the sheen greater the enamel value which affects the strength or protective ability of the paint. As sheen for paint is not standardized, each manufacturer may call the same sheen by different names. The different types of sheen are:

Flat paint has a matte finish that does not reflect light therefore it is good to hide imperfections on the wall. This paint is normally used for surfaces that has little wear and tear and does not need scrubbing often. Flat paint is best for walls that have been painted a number to times and have been repaired often. Flat paint is ideal for wall where wallpaper has been peeled off.

Satin paint is often called eggshell, has a delicate shine much like the luster of the shell of an egg that is fresh. It last longer than flat paint and more stain resistant than flat paint. Unlike gloss satin paint too does not draw attention to flaws on the surface. You can use satin paint on cabinets, in kid’s rooms and baths.

Semi gloss paint has more luster than satin paint, is easy to clean, as it is more stain resistant than satin paint. Semi gloss paint is best for rooms that have a lot of wear and tear and require to be scrubbed often like the kitchen and baths etc. It can be used on woodwork and cabinets as well.

Gloss paint is hard, shiny and hides almost all brush strokes but it draws attention to imperfections on the surface that it is used. It is the toughest, most stain-resistant and is the easiest to clean among all the above-mentioned paints. It can be used for woodwork like banisters, railings, trims and cabinets.

An insider tip to make your paint job look like the pros….use “frog tape” where two colors come together. The tape can be applied at the point where the two colors join. It can then be removed when the paint is dry to give a much smoother joint between the two colors than can normally be created by free hand painting. Although it is likely once removed you will have to touch up a few areas here or there with a brush, the cut line will be far straighter than if you attempt it free hand or use plain white masking tape.

Proper interior paint preparation of your walls and ceilings before painting will often encompass more work than the actual painting. Up to 75% of the work can be getting a surface ready for painting.

Wall preparation for painting is more than covering the floor.

The amount of painting preparation needed depends on three factors;

• If the surface is in relatively good condition and previously painted.
• If it shows signs of severe wear and tear
• If unpainted and needing many steps before the finish paint can be applied.

Many of the basic interior painting preparation steps are relevant to all situations, whether a room is in good shape or needing extensive repair. Interior painting and the steps involved can release dust or particles into the air and there for onto all surfaces of a room. There are environmental concerns with any scraping or sanding of the existing finish.

Lead paint safety is a major concern when painting. Many painted or finished surfaces can contain lead and protecting yourself and your family needs to be a first priority.

Lead was used as a pigment and drying agent in “alkyd” oil based paint. “Latex” water based paints generally have not contained lead. About two-thirds of the homes built before 1940 and one-half of the homes built from 1940 to 1960 contain heavily-leaded paint. Some homes built after 1960 also contain heavily-leaded paint. It may be on any interior or exterior surface, particularly on woodwork, doors, and windows. In 1978, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission lowered the legal maximum lead content in most kinds of paint to 0.06% (a trace amount). Consider having the paint in homes constructed before the 1980s tested for lead before renovating or if the paint or underlying surface is deteriorating. This is particularly important if infants, children, or pregnant women are present.

Follow those links to learn more about different situations about interior room preparation before painting.

• Interior Paint Preparation for a Room in Good Condition and Previously Painted
• Interior Paint Preparation for a Room Showing Signs of Wear and Needing Repair
• Interior Preparation for New Construction – Unpainted Walls and Ceilings

What Did You Do To Get It Ready for Paint

So many surfaces can be painted! We are showing many of the basics but you will eventually find a situation that is unique. What did you do? We would love to know.

The easiest rooms to paint are in good condition needing only minor wall preparation for painting. Covering and protecting non-painted surfaces is always a good place to begin.

This includes moving the furniture away from the walls toward the center of the room. If possible, remove as much furniture from the room especially if you are going to paint a ceiling as well. The less obstacles the easier the room is to paint. Masking the perimeter of the room with a masking paper if you are painting the walls only, or the whole floor if you are painting the ceiling.

Repair can be pulling a few nails no longer needed for hanging pictures and filling small holes with light weight spackle. Minor cracks in the walls can be filled with the same spackle.

Now is a good time to check the caulking around windows and where the trim meets the wall, this includes all of the base and casing. If the trim is painted recaulk with a good siliconized acrylic caulk or elastomeric caulk (elastomeric caulk is recommended for working cracks due to its elasticity).

Minor stains on the surfaces needing paint should be washed with mild soap and water or primed with a stain blocking primer if they can’t be removed by washing. Now the interior painting can start. If you are applying the same color and type of paint sheen over the existing color you will need one coat as this is considered a repaint. For any color changes or sheen changes we advice you apply two coats to achieve the solid coverage, also if the existing paint color is dark and you are changing it to a much lighter color you should prime the surface first.

This is where the work is, we’ve seen a lot of rooms needing extensive interior paint preparation. Most painted surfaces will show signs of wear such as minor holes or major cracks in the walls or ceilings, chipped paint on the trim or water stains and possible water damage.

Some interior paint problems can be caused by poor preparation the last time it was painted. Interior paint preparation is the foundation for the entire job. If done correctly it can make your paint perform to its fullest potential. If done incorrectly or incompletely the best paint can crack, peel or chip easily.

If major or extensive drywall repair is needed it is best to empty the room of furniture as much as possible. Move all remaining items to the center of the room and cover completely with light weight plastic. Cover and protect unmovable objects plus areas not needing painting. Dust can cover all items, completely protect everything and save time cleaning after the room is painted.

All repairs need to be fully accomplished and primed before proceeding with the application of the finish paint. Priming drywall repairs or raw wood is necessary before painting.

Interior paint preparation involving new unpainted surfaces are the easiest to deal with. Depending on the situation and how the primer and paint will be applied mask and protect windows and installed doors and trim. Painting the interior of a new home can be very quick at first until all the details need finishing, like painting wood trim and doors. Those items will take more time.

Walls and ceilings textured or not, will require priming with a drywall primer. The technique used for applying the primer is the same for applying the paint. You can roll or spray the paint. After the primer is applied check the corners for minor cracks or defects and caulk where necessary.

If a room has been retextured, treat it as a new surface. Usually trim and doors are not installed until the walls and ceilings are painted. The trim and doors can be pre-finished before installation to save time.

Lead-based paint is hazardous to your health.

Lead-based paint is a major source of lead poisoning for children and can also affect adults. In children, lead poisoning can cause irreversible brain damage and can impair mental functioning. It can retard mental and physical development and reduce attention span. It can also retard fetal development even at extremely low levels of lead. In adults, it can cause irritability, poor muscle coordination, and nerve damage to the sense organs and nerves controlling the body. Lead poisoning may also cause problems with reproduction (such as a decreased sperm count). It may also increase blood pressure. Thus, young children, fetuses, infants, and adults with high blood pressure are the most vulnerable to the effects of lead.

Children should be screened for lead poisoning.

In communities where the houses are old and deteriorating, take advantage of available screening programs offered by local health departments and have children checked regularly to see if they are suffering from lead poisoning. Because the early symptoms of lead poisoning are easy to confuse with other illnesses, it is difficult to diagnose lead poisoning without medical testing. Early symptoms may include persistent tiredness, irritability, loss of appetite, stomach discomfort, reduced attention span, insomnia, and constipation. Failure to treat children in the early stages can cause long-term or permanent health damage.

The current blood lead level which defines lead poisoning is 10 micrograms of lead per deciliter of blood. However, since poisoning may occur at lower levels than previously thought, various federal agencies are considering whether this level should be lowered further so that lead poisoning prevention programs will have the latest information on testing children for lead poisoning.

Consumers can be exposed to lead from paint.

Eating paint chips is one way young children are exposed to lead. It is not the most common way that consumers, in general, are exposed to lead. Ingesting and inhaling lead dust that is created as lead-based paint “chalks,” chips, or peels from deteriorated surfaces can expose consumers to lead. Walking on small paint chips found on the floor, or opening and closing a painted frame window, can also create lead dust. Other sources of lead include deposits that may be present in homes after years of use of leaded gasoline and from industrial sources like smelting. Consumers can also generate lead dust by sanding lead-based paint or by scraping or heating lead-based paint.

Lead dust can settle on floors, walls, and furniture. Under these conditions, children can ingest lead dust from hand-to-mouth con- tact or in food. Settled lead dust can re-enter the air through cleaning, such as sweeping or vacuuming, or by movement of people throughout the house.

Older homes may contain lead based paint.

Lead was used as a pigment and drying agent in “alkyd” oil based paint. “Latex” water based paints generally have not contained lead. About two-thirds of the homes built before 1940 and one-half of the homes built from 1940 to 1960 contain heavily-leaded paint. Some homes built after 1960 also contain heavily-leaded paint. It may be on any interior or exterior surface, particularly on woodwork, doors, and windows. In 1978, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission lowered the legal maximum lead content in most kinds of paint to 0.06% (a trace amount). Consider having the paint in homes constructed before the 1980s tested for lead before renovating or if the paint or underlying surface is deteriorating. This is particularly important if infants, children, or pregnant women are present.

Consumers can have paint tested for lead.

There are do-it-yourself kits available. However, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission has not evaluated any of these kits. One home test kit uses sodium sulfide solution. This procedure requires you to place a drop of sodium sulfide solution on a paint chip. The paint chip slowly turns darker if lead is present. There are problems with this test, however. Other metals may cause false positive results, and resins in the paint may prevent the sulfide from causing the paint chip to change color. Thus, the presence of lead may not be correctly indicated. In addition the darkening may be detected only on very light-colored paint.

Another in-home test requires a trained professional who can operate the equipment safely. This test uses X-ray fluorescence to determine if the paint contains lead. Although the test can be done in your home, it should be done only by professionals trained by the equipment manufacturer or who have passed a state or local government training course, since the equipment contains radioactive materials. In addition, in some tests, the method has not been reliable.

Consumers may choose to have a testing laboratory test a paint sample for lead. Lab testing is considered more reliable than other methods. Lab tests may cost from $20 to $50 per sample. To have the lab test for lead paint, consumers may:

• Get sample containers from the lab or use re-sealable plastic bags. Label the containers or bags with the consumer’s name and the location in the house from which each paint sample was taken. Several samples should be taken from each affected room (see HUD Guidelines discussed below).
• Use a sharp knife to cut through the edges of the sample paint. The lab should tell you the size of the sample needed. It will probably be about 2 inches by 2 inches.
• Lift off the paint with a clean putty knife and put it into the container. Be sure to take a sample of all layers of paint, since only the lower layers may contain lead. Do not include any of the underlying wood, plaster, metal, and brick.
• Wipe the surface and any paint dust with a wet cloth or paper towel and discard the cloth or towel.

The U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) recommends that action to reduce exposure should be taken when the lead in paint is greater than 0.5% by lab testing or greater than 1.0 milligrams per square centimeter by X-ray fluorescence. Action is especially important when paint is deteriorating or when infants, children, or pregnant women are present. Consumers can reduce exposure to lead-based paint.

If you have lead-based paint, you should take steps to reduce your exposure to lead. You can:

1. Have the painted item replaced.

You can replace a door or other easily removed item if you can do it without creating lead dust. Items that are difficult to remove should be replaced by professionals who will control and contain lead dust.

2. Cover the lead-based paint.

You can spray the surface with a sealant or cover it with gypsum wallboard. However, painting over lead-based paint with non-lead paint is not a long-term solution. Even though the lead-based paint may be covered by non-lead paint, the lead-based paint may continue to loosen from the surface below and create lead dust. The new paint may also partially mix with the lead-based paint, and lead dust will be released when the new paint begins to deteriorate.

3. Have the lead-based paint removed.

Have professionals trained in removing lead-based paint do this work. Each of the paint-removal methods (sandpaper, scrapers, chemicals, sandblasters, and torches or heat guns) can produce lead fumes or dust. Fumes or dust can become airborne and be inhaled or ingested. Wet methods help reduce the amount of lead dust. Removing moldings, trim, window sills, and other painted surfaces for professional paint stripping outside the home may also create dust. Be sure the professionals contain the lead dust. Wet-wipe all surfaces to remove any dust or paint chips. Wet-clean the area before re-entry.

You can remove a small amount of lead-based paint if you can avoid creating any dust. Make sure the surface is less than about one square foot (such as a window sill). Any job larger than about one square foot should be done by professionals. Make sure you can use a wet method (such as a liquid paint stripper).

4. Reduce lead dust exposure.

You can periodically wet mop and wipe surfaces and floors with a high phosphorous (at least 5%) cleaning solution. Wear waterproof gloves to prevent skin irritation. Avoid activities that will disturb or damage lead based paint and create dust. This is a preventive measure and is not an alternative to replacement or removal.

Professionals are available to remove, replace, or cover lead-based paint.

Contact your state and local health departments lead poisoning prevention programs and housing authorities for information about testing labs and contractors who can safely remove lead-based paint.

The U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) prepared guidelines for removing lead-based paint which were published in the Federal Register, April 18, 1990, page 1455614614. Ask contractors about their qualifications, experience removing lead-based paint, and plans to follow these guidelines.

• Consumers should keep children and other occupants (especially infants, pregnant women, and adults with high blood pressure) out of the work area until the job is completed.
• Consumers should remove all food and eating utensils from the work area.
• Contractors should remove all furniture, carpets, and drapes and seal the work area from the rest of the house. The contractor also should cover and seal the floor unless lead paint is to be removed from the floor.
• Contractors should assure that workers wear respirators designed to avoid inhaling lead.
• Contractors should not allow eating or drinking in the work area. Contractors should cover and seal all cabinets and food contact surfaces.
• Contractors should dispose of clothing worn in the room after working. Workers should not wear work clothing in other areas of the house. The contractor should launder work clothes separately.
• Contractors should clean up debris using special vacuum cleaners with HEPA (high efficiency particulate air) filters and should use a wet mop after vacuuming.

Contractors should dispose of lead-based paint waste and contaminated materials in accordance with state and local regulations.

One of the option is to rip out the old material, paint and all, and replace it with new, but sometimes that doesn’t make sense.  A piece of wood that’s solid walnut would be very expensive to replace, especially if it has a special profile, and some details, like the intricate, carved gable details are irreplaceable.

Power sanding is the fastest removal method, but also the one most likely to damage the underlying surface and blow dust into the air, a serious hazard if the paint contains lead.

Softening paint with heat guns is a gentler approach, but the process is tedious, often chars the wood, and can create toxic aerosols if the paint contains lead.

Stripping with chemicals is also slow and messy, but done correctly it’s the surest way to eliminate paint and preserve the wood.

The first and perhaps biggest challenge is figuring out which chemical stripper to use. Buyers have to consider a number of factors, including the amount and kind of material being stripped, the type of surface the stripper is applied to, how quickly and effectively it works, and what gear is needed to use it safely. The starting point for making an informed decision is to look at the ingredients. All strippers contain one of five basic paint-softening substances: solvents such as methylene chloride, N-methyl pyrrolidone (NMP), dibasic ester (DBE), and acetone, toluene, and methanol (ATM); and highly alkaline caustics such as lye. Each one has its strengths and weaknesses, and each one—even if promoted as “safe”—needs to be treated with caution.

Strippers based on the solvent methylene chloride are speedy, nonflammable, effective on virtually all coatings except milk paint, and do not damage wood, metal, or masonry. Methylene chloride’s speedy evaporation rate increases the risk of inhalation.

With all the practical, health, and safety concerns surrounding methylene chloride, some manufacturers have come up with alternatives. The most common now on the market is N-methyl pyrrolidone, often called NMP. Unlike methylene chloride, NMP evaporates very slowly, so it remains active on paint long enough to soften and release many layers at once. The key with NMP is patience; it needs more time to work than methylene chloride.

Citristrip
Natural citrus terpenes found in oranges gives this stripper an orange-like smell. The gel form works well on chair and table legs and is biodegradable, but check with your town to see if the lead-based paint you’ve just stripped with it can be tossed to the curb.
•Methylpyrrolidone, or NMP, replaces methylene chloride as the active stripping ingredient.
•Leave it on for 30 minutes or up to 24 hours to remove multiple layers.
•Use it to strip latex or oil-based paints and coatings from wood, metal, and masonry.
•About $11.50 per quart

Dibasic esters, or DBEs, is another of the “safe” finish removers now on store shelves. Like NMPs, with which they are often paired, DBEs evaporate slowly and can work through many paint layers at once, although it takes even longer than NMP. DBEs have long been used in hand cleaners, and have been marketed as the “safest” of all strippers.

Safest Stripper
Available as a liquid or a semi-paste, Safest Strip is gentle enough to rinse down the drain. After stripping, clean the piece of furniture with water.
•Relies on gentler dibasic esters to remove paint.
•Works in 2 hours
•The semi-paste version reduces drips on vertical surfaces and can be left on for up to 30 hours.
•About $11 per quart

The fourth solvent-type stripper is a combination of acetone, toluene, and methanol (ATM). Like methylene chloride, these highly volatile chemicals can be extremely effective in removing paint, especially when formulated with waxes and thickeners that trap the active ingredients close to the surface. They need to be used with plenty of ventilation and the proper safety gear, including splash-proof goggles, butyl or plastic-laminate gloves, and a respirator fitted with organic-vapor cartridges. These strippers are also highly flammable—cigarettes, pilot lights, and sparks from electrical equipment can set off an explosion if the vapors concentrate sufficiently.

The only fumeless way for consumers to remove paint is with caustic, or alkaline, strippers. Made with caustic soda, lye, or potash, they eat through many layers of coatings the same way lye-based drain cleaners dissolve the gunk in a clogged pipe. This slow but steady chemical action is remarkably effective, but once the paint is gone, alkaline strippers don’t stop. They’ll darken and desiccate exposed wood and will attack the new finish unless neutralized with an acid rinse. Skin and eyes are equally at risk, making goggles, chemical-resistant gloves, and protective clothing essential for anyone applying or removing the stripper.

Also see SoyGreen
A mild lemon scent replaces the odor of stronger chemicals. SoyGreen’s five gallon bucket of SoyGreen 6000, which was  renamed Soy-It in late January 2009, covers 250 square feet—plenty for a table or a few chairs. It’s safe to use on fiberglass, so you can apply it to an exterior door. The product has been recognized for green chemistry by the EPA’s Design for the Environment Program.
•Relies on soy esters to strip paint
•Can be left on up to 12 hours
•Apply it to wood, brick, stone, plaster, metal, fiberglass, graphite and steel.
•About $185 per five gallons

There’s more than one way to skin a cat… or in this case strip a surface. If you have an experience of your own we would love to hear about it, feel free to post and share!

The most lasting and cost effective way to change the color of stucco is with paint. With your full attention on the details, from surface preparation to applying a high quality finish paint, the new look and color of your exterior stucco can be virtually maintenance free for many years.

This starts with proper surface preparation and any needed repairs. Then continues with choosing and applying the best primer and paint.

Before any preparation can begin take a good look at the entire surface. Pay attention to peeling paint, rust stains, efflorescence deposits and any areas needing repair. Peeling paint along with stains and efflorescence deposits can indicate water damage. These areas will require closer inspection after pressure washing.

Preparation:

• Pressure Washing Stucco

The preparation begins with a thorough washing to remove all dirt and dust. Pressure washing can be a delicate operation. Stucco is a relatively soft masonry coating and can be easily damaged by high-pressure water.

Masonry cleaners and soaps can be used for heavily soiled areas, efflorescence deposits or rust stains. Usually the use of cleaners is not necessary.

Begin washing at the top of the wall and work your way down. Keep the spray tip 12-inches or more away from the surface. Pay special attention to windows and doors. Angle the pressurized water away from these areas to prevent leaks or water intrusion behind the stucco.

The pressure washer can remove loose paint, but it can also remove some of the stucco if the pressure is too high or the tip is to close. Use the washer to provide a clean surface. Don’t rely on it to remove all the loose paint.

Allow the stucco to thoroughly dry before proceeding with priming and caulking. This can take 24 hours or more depending on temperatures and humidity.

• Caulk and Sealants

Applying sealants to all cracks and gaps is very important and will drastically affect how long the paint job lasts. Water must be stopped from penetrating beneath the paint finish. The best and most appropriate sealant is an elastomeric caulk. With excellent adhesion and elongation characteristics this sealant will last a long time.

• Stucco Repairs

Any loose stucco must be removed and repaired. A professional contractor who can match the existing texture should repair large areas. Smaller areas can be repaired with specialized patching compounds. The basic steps are very easy. First chip away all loose material. Now rinse the area with water using a wire brush to remove any remaining powder or grit. The patching compound can be applied after the area has dried.

The best patching compounds are a powder mixed with water. The first application will smooth the area and level it with the existing finish. The second application is to provide the necessary texture matching the surrounding stucco. Matching any texture is extremely difficult. Most likely the patched area will a little different.

Choosing Primer and Paint:

• Primer

An acrylic masonry primer is the best for whole house priming. For spot priming an exterior all-purpose acrylic primer can be used.

• Paint

There are several considerations when choosing masonry paint.

• • Ability to breathe allowing internal moisture to escape and still be resistant to external sources of water.
  • Flexible – Move with the house without splitting at any temperature.
  • Bridge small cracks. Removing these unattractive non-structural cracks.
  • Resist dirt pick-up and mildew growth.
  • Be resistant to chipping, chalking and peeling for maximum longevity.

A quality acrylic latex paint formulated for stucco or an elastomeric are the coatings of choice. Acrylic latex provides excellent protection unless some substrate problems or the need to protect against wind-driven rain make elastomeric a better choice. Most top quality Elastomeric coatings do not require the use of a primer on clean and sound masonry surfaces. Choosing a finish paint designed for masonry surfaces will ensure maximum durability.

Applying Primer and Paint:

Whether spraying or rolling splatters or drips are probable. Complete masking and covering is recommended.

• Brush and Roll

This is an excellent painting method for short or small areas. The choice of roller cover and nap thickness will have a big impact when rolling stucco.

A lamb’s wool roller cover will work the best. These cover are less likely to splatter and will hold their shape.

The nap thickness depends on the texture of the surface. Use a 1 or 1-1/4 inch for smooth textures and 1-1/2 inch for ruff textures.

Roller applications should be two coats, even if the new color covers well. Two coats will fully fill the pores and provide the proper film thickness.

Begin with the cut-in. Brush around all doors, windows and other openings. This includes any trim and the wall to the soffits. Allow a brushed border of paint 4-6 inches. This will allow the roller to overlap 2-3 inches creating a better seal.

While rolling always saturate the roller cover and never dry roll. Apply a heavy even coat starting at the top of the wall. Finish rolling in a downward direction to make sure the stipple is in one direction.

• Spraying

The size of the airless paint sprayer and tip depends of the type of finish paint.

• • Normal exterior acrylic paint can be sprayed with a 1/2 gallon per minute airless sprayer and a tip size of .015 or .017. The fan width is optional.
  • Elastomeric paints need a larger pump and tip in order to achieve the proper film thickness. A minimum pump size is 1-1/2 gallons per minute and tip size of .021. This depends on the manufacture and their recommendations.

Is it recommended with use of elastomeric paint at least the first coat should be back rolled to properly fill the pinholes and tight cracks. This method will require two people, one spraying and one rolling. The same considerations when brushing and rolling need to be followed.

Apply the paint as a thick continuous film, immediately roll behind the sprayer. On a hot day you will have to move quickly. To make this a more enjoyable experience, work in the shade as much as possible and follow behind the sun.

Begin spraying at the top and work your way down, working the wall in sections. In order to cover the surface efficiently spray using a horizontal, side to side, movement and a vertical, up and down, movement.

The objective when painting stucco is to provide a continuous film of paint and a pinhole free surface. Do not skimp on the quality of primer or paint and the amount used. Use the best method specific to you and your own situation.